Centre documentaire
WAVES, TIDES AND SHALLOW-WATER PROCESSES
Année de parution : 1-01 00:00:01
Auteur(s) : AN OPEN UNIVERSITY COURSE TEAM
Maître d'ouvrage : THE OPEN UNIVERSITY
Maître d'œuvre : AN OPEN UNIVERSITY COURSE TEAM
Nature(s) : OUVRAGE
Thème(s) : GENERALITES ESTUAIRES
Chapter I : WAVES
1.1 What are waves?
1.2 Surface wave theory
1.3 Wave dispersion and group speed
1.4 Wave energy
1.5 Waves approaching the shore
1.6 Waves of unusual character
1.7 Measurement of waves
1.8 Summary
CHAPTER II : TIDES
2.1 Tide-producing forces - the earth-moon system
2.2 Tide-producing forces - the earth-sun system
2.3 The dynamic theory of tides
2.4 Real tides
2.5 Summary
CHAPTER III : INTRODUCTION TO SHALLOW- WATER ENVIRONMENTS AND THEIR SEDIMENTS
3.1 Sediments of shallow-water environments
3.2 Summary
CHAPTER IV : PRINCIPLES AND PROCESSES OF SEDIMENT TRANSPORT
4.1 Factors controlling the movement of sediment
4.2 Sediment erosion, transport and deposition
4.3 The deposition of sediment
4.4 Bed forms
4.5 Summary
CHAPTER V : BEACHES
5.1 The morphology of beaches
5.2 Sediment movement inthe beach zone
5.3 Dynamic equilibrium of sediment supply and removal
5.4 Summary
CHAPTER VI : ESTUARIES
6.1 Sediment distribution in estuaries
6.2 Tidal channels of estuaries
6.3 Lagoons, tidal flats and barrier islands
6.4 Summary
CHAPTER VII : DELTAS
7.1 Delta morphology
7.2 Mixing and sediment deposition at distributary mouths
7.3 The effects of human activities on deltas
7.4 Summary
CHAPTER VIII : SHELF SEAS
8.1 Shelf sea processes
8.2 Sediment transport and deposition in some shelf seas
8.3 The shelf sea system from shore to shelf break
8.4 Summary
SUGGESTED FURTHER READING
ANSWERS AND COMMENTS TO QUESTIONS
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS